Care Instructions
Incubation and Hatching Care
Eggs should be clean not cracked or have thin shells. Do not handle the eggs any more than necesssary.
Before incubation, you may store the eggs in a cool-humid area, preferrably at a 55 degree F. temperature. and 75% relative humidity. ALWAYS store eggs with the small end down. It is important to alter the eggs position periodically if you do not incubate in the first six days. It is not recommended to store eggs more than 7 days before incubation for the best hatchibility results. Eggs should be at room temperature before placing them in the incubator. You must follow the manufaturers instructions for the type of incubator that you have. The temperature should be kept at 100 degrees F. throughout the entire incubation process, using a forced air incubator. Prolonged periods of high and low temperature effects the hatchibilty.
A still air incubator should be maintained at 100-101 degrees F. Elevate the bulb of the thermometer to the same height as the top of the eggs, when the eggs are horizontal. Vertical eggs can be checked be elevating the thermometer bulb to a point from 1/4-1/2 inch below the top of the egg.
It is very important to control the humidity to prevent moisture loss to the eggs. The relative humidity between setting and three days prior to hatching should remain at 58-60% or 84-86 degrees F., wet bulb. When the hatching process begins, the humidity is increased to 65% relative humidity or more.
It is important to light your brooders 24 hours in advance before hatching begins. The temperature should be 90-95 F. below the outer edge of the brooder, 1 inch above the litter line. A solid brooder guard is recommended for each brooder, approximately 18 inches high. By putting the guard around the brooder, you prevent the chicks from getting chilled as they stay near the heat.
In warmer months the guard can be larger. Expand the guard a little each day until it is no longer needed after 1-2 weeks. You should also be reducing the temperature 5 degrees per week until the birds can with stand the normal outside temperatures.
We recommend using corrugated cardboard as a brooder guard as it is easy to discard once it is soiled. In hot weather, you may use a mesh brooder guard, keeping in mind that you will need to keep it cleaned and sanitized.
Pine shavings, rice, peanut hulls or clean cut straw make good brooder floors.
Provide plenty of feeders and waterers around the brooder. At least 2- 1 gallon waterers and 2- 18 inch chick feeders per 100 chicks.Please keep all waterers and feeders clean and sanitized to prevent disease. You must be dedicated to this part to have healthy birds and a successful business. You will want to use a drown proof waterer, if needed you can add small stones or marbles so the chicks do not drown. You will also need to purchase a vitamin-electrolyte package for the first few days to give the checks a healthy boost. This is available at your local farm store. Do not place the feeders and waterers directly under the brooder heat, this area is for the chicks to stay warm. Game bird chicks require a high quality gamebird starter feed of 28 % protein. If none is available, you can use Turkey starter. The chicks will need smaller granuals for the first few days. We have had luck using a rolling pen to make it smaller for the chicks to eat. Do not feed your chicks laying rations, there is too much calcium for their systems and this can result in death. If your birds are to be sold before breeding season, you can maintain them on flight ration at 18% until sold. As the chicks grow, their downey coat is replaced with feathers and you will have been reducing the temperature by 5 degrees per week until you feel they are ready to with stand the outside temperatures.
Space For Your Birds
| Age | Floor Space | Feed Space | Water Space |
| 1-10 days old | 3 birds per sq. ft. | 1/2 inch per bird | 2- 1/2 gallon founts per 100 birds |
| 10 days- 6 wks. | 1 bird per sq. ft. | 1 inch per bird | Same |
| 6 -14 wks. | 1 bird per sq. ft. | 1 1/2 inch per bird | 1 linear ft. per 100 birds |
In most states, there are rules and regulations that you must follow in order to keep the quail confined and raise them for selling or hunting on a preserve. You can get assistance through your local conservation officer or state wildlife department.
Breeding Quail
If you choose to breed quail, it is best to use birds from hatches before the peak production period. You will have stronger, healthier birds. The best breeder chicks are hatched from the older breeders that continue to lay well over a long production time.
Have the breeders tested for pullorum-typhoid disease. You can obtain a list of approved blood testing agents from your county agent or poultry improvement association for your state.
It is recommended to pair your breeders 4-6 weeks before the natural laying season or at least 2 weeks before the light will be provided.
Now it is time to move the breeders to their proper areas. You will want to beak trim the breeders at hatching time and if necessary before mating to prevent cannibalism.
Beak Trimming
By trimming the birds beak, you help prevent cannibalism. You can use nail clippers, scissors or electric debeakers. It is usually done at one day old and at 6 weeks of age. You only want to trim off 1/4 of the beak- from the beak tip to the nostrils. More trimming than this can cause them to have trouble eating and hamper their growing resulting in culling later. It is best not to trim the beaks of weak or sick birds, the stress will only make them worse.
Introducing New Breeders
The best way to introduce new breeders is buy purchasing hatching eggs. It is not recommended to bring adult breeders into an existing operation. You want to take every precaution to keep disease down. If you are bringing in any new birds other than newly hatched, you should quarantine them for three weeks before you introduce them to your already existing pens.
Breeding Cages
Placing your breeders in cages with wire flooring is the best, since it greatly decreases the chances of diseases and produces clean eggs. The cages should have solid dividers to keep the cocks from fighting. It is best not to have them any deeper from the front to the back than 3 to 4 feet to make egg collection easier and to remove any birds as well as to clean the cage. It is recommended to have your solid divider every three to four feet.
One male with one female gives you the highest egg production, fertility, and hatchibility. Rations of 1:2 or 1:3 result in lower number of chicks per hen but produce a greater number of chicks per breeder.
Breeder Environment
Light is needed to stimulate the breeder's productive system which initiates the breeding cycle. Normally in nature, quail begin to mate in spring responding to the extra daylight. By having artificial light, you can bring your breeders into the egg production cycle anytime you want and maintain production through the year. The breeders will need 17 hours of light each day. The best light control system uses a time clock to turn the lights on in the morning and off at night. You can use 60 watt incandescent lights at 10 foot intervals. You will need to increase the artificial light by 1 hour per week so that they will have a 17 hour day length by the time they are 24-26 weeks of age. It is important not to reduce the length or intensity of the light, this will cause a reduction or ceasing in egg production.
The breeders need to be maintained at a temperature of 50'f and 85'f. The air should be well ventilated to remove the dust in the winter and the heat and humidity in the summer months. Also the ammonia smell needs to be kept at bay by proper ventilation.
In the winter it is best to keep your birds in pens of 20 or more to help provide them with the most warmth.
Most hens begin egg production between 22-25 weeks of age. Within 2-3 weeks the eggs should be at the proper size for sitting. The older the bird, the larger the egg. At the end of the hens laying cycle, the hatchibility may decrease, this is why many producers stop production before severe declines occur.
Feeding the Breeders
At 2 to 3 weeks before egg production, switch from grower feed to breeder feed. When egg production drops below your acceptable levels, end the breeding season by decreasing the light and return to a low level grower feed or maintenance diet. After resting 3 months, the breeders can be used again.